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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.